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Taftan , Quetta , Peshawar , Darra Adam Khel , Rawalpindi , Lahore

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Travel time: March 98.

Itīs hard to travel in this country. People are loud and strange but if you can face their power it could be a real adventure and you can do and get what you want for small money. Be rude as they are if necessary.

Carry a touch with you every time because of blackouts.

Donīt change money directly at the border. Close to the border is the only "restaurant" where youīll get better rates or take a seat in this "restaurant" and after a while the best exchange rate will come to you. There is also good meal and tea available.

Check the overnight bus to Quetta (14-? h) before you buy the ticket. There are several busses leaving between 5pm and 8pm. Itīs more comfortable to take a "big" bus than a minibus. Take a lot of food and water with you because you have to pass a desert.

Stay at Muslim Hotel at Mohammed Ali Jinnah Rd. (dorm for 150 Rp). Itīs good for cyclists because it has a courtyard which is locked at night.

Take the train if you want to travel directly to Rawalpindi (32h) or Peshawar (44h) and not a bus. It's more comfortable. If you book early enough you can get a upstairs sleeper.

Stay at the National Hotel between Khyber Bazaar and Cinema Road. It's rundown and no shower but very cheap (40Rp/pp.), friendly and very impressive because it's an old caravansary. It's good for cyclists because it has a courtyard which is controlled well. The staff knows a place to shower (10 Rp).

If you want an adventure ask around for "Papa" near the main post office. He is waiting most time there for customers. He can bring you to some "no go areas" for small money. Don't trust him too much but he is okay.

Darra Adam Khel
You can't get a permit to travel in tribe areas because there is no government control possible. You travel on your own risk!!! No official can help you if something will happen.

Take a minibus from Peshawar to Darra (10 Rs, 1h). At Darra you have to leave the bus at the gunman's checkpoint. The gunman escort you through the city if you can face there power. They will show you the factories where guns and bullets are produced. You can shot a round with an AK47 for 50 USD or anything else for more.

Don't carry any guns, drugs, false money or passports back to Peshawar. There is a police checkpoint near Peshawar and they check well.

Stay at Al-Falah-Hotel at Adamjes Rd.(double with own shower for 160Rs). Itīs good and central.

Beware!!! Don't stay at the Australia building (the hostel is named in the moment "Tourist Cottage"). Touts are also around the railway station. The accommodation is very cheap but the staff operates as thief! If you lose money or cheques here tell the manager youīll hire a gunman for 400USD who will shot down his family. Youīll get back all the stolen things at the next day if you are professional enough. (I got stolen most of my money and traveler cheques by taking a shower at night. My companion stayed at the room but the staff asked him to fill out some forms. They were very noisy and unfriendly so he didnīt noticed the theft but I got all stolen things back at the next morning (see above) and marked the wall with signs because of this.)

Internet access at "Brain", Hafeez Center, Gulberg.

Take minibus No. 12 Jellomon southeast of Lahore City Railway Station. Change Bus to Wagha (border to India). Walk through the border. The Pakistanis will tell you have to change your Pakistan roupies in Indian roupies (for a bad rate) but there is a bank to change money. The Indians will tell you that it's not allowed to carry Indian roupies across the border but itīs not true. Be prepared. It's 4 km from the Indian customs office to the bus terminal. Take a rickshaw for 5Rs.

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